If at some point in the future I am dropped at night into Africa I will know where I am by scent. The mixture of dust, mud, sweat, dung, cooking smoke, diesel fumes, charcoal, fruit and vegetation that is uniquely African.
After leaving Kisii we crossed into Tanzania. The drive through northern Tanzania to Lake Victoria was stunning – large sandstone formations or kopjes served as a backdrop for small villages and towns.
A local village welcomed us at Lake Victoria with a boat trip and village tour. The lake is the second largest in the world and is surrounded by villages. The pressure on the lake is intense. Native ciclid populations have been decimated by the introduction of the nile perch which grows up to 2 feet in length. The fishing communities are organized around the women. The men catch the fish, the women buy the fish from the men and market it in the fish market. The women run the village, the orphanage, and the school. There are a large number of HIV orphans in the village as well as in other villages in the area. Our guide was a Uganda educated teacher who runs the village school.