Sao Miguel – the largest island in the Azores – is more like parts of England and Ireland than the arid landscape I had envisioned. Verdant green enclosure type pastures, defined by living fences and rock walls, home to the many herds of cattle that characterize agriculture here. We began our hike this morning at Ribeira Funda, our destination Maia a picturesque town on the coast – about a 3 1/2 hour hike. The trail clung to the coast, winding its way up hillsides and down into stream beds, some steep uphill climbs, interesting stream crossings due to washed out bridges and glorious sea vistas. We passed numerous abandoned water mills along the way before reaching our first stop at the magnificent black sand beach Praia de Viola.
The water mills here are in various stages of disrepair with some reconstruction ongoing. They used water power brought to the mill structure by Levadas to drive any mechanical process (grinding, rolling or hammering) in the days before electric driven power was available. I could imagine them humming along in the past, powered by the ever flowing water that comes down the hillsides.
The drop down into Praia da Viola beach was breathtaking, a crescent beach with the red roofed town of Maia in the distance.
Following lunch up the hill we went again finishing off in Maia. A few friendly inhabitants made their appearance along the way. Next stop the hotsprings at the Caldeira Velha to soak away some sore knees 🙂
The thermal springs of Caldeira Velha are derived from a steam heated suspended aquifer located deep in the Fogo volcano. The rock lined pools range from 20 C to boiling and all levels in between. Cycads and other ferns grow profusely in the small valley, lending a Jurassic Park vibe to the area. Although considered an invasive species here on the Azores, the Cycads are beautiful, unchanged for millions of years. The yellow mineral deposits on the rocks added a lovely addition to the palette of greens and greys in the park.
Similar to Madeira, the nine islands that make up the Azores were produced from underwater volcanic eruptions. As 27 volcanoes can be found in the Azores islands (located at what is called the Azores triple junction plate boundary where north American, Eurasian and Nubian plates meet) volcanic activity has been lively in the past. There is scattered evidence of human habitation on the islands prior to the 15th C and Portuguese settlement. Some sediment core sampling suggests that our friends the Vikings may have briefly settled the islands in the 8th C.
And yes -we are tired :-). A perfect day was complete with a famous Azoran tenderloin steak (and it was GOOD) and a bottle of the Island’s white, enjoyed at a harbour front restaurant. The white wine of the Azores is extremely good and we are enjoying it while we can. Nothing here makes it to the North American markets.
Until tomorrow – boa noite
Great pictures. Looks like a beautiful place.