A plane I hadn’t seen for decades greeted us as we walked out on the tarmac for our flight to Horta and the final stage of our journey. Once loaded, the little Dash 8 trundled on down the runway and quickly became airborne, making short work of the 25 minute trip to Horta airport on Faial Island. Our smiling guide Henry Simoes owner operator of Lost in Pico Slow Travel was at the airport to meet us and we embarked on a memorable day.
Our first stop was the town of Horta and its harbour, a major stop for yachts heading to or back from trans-Atlantic crossings. The quays are covered with paintings left by yacht owners who have visited the harbour. The harbour is also home to Peters Cafe Sport, a virtual museum of pennants from the yachts who have visited over the decades. One named Thor Heyerdahl puzzled us for a while, as Heyerdahl’s voyages focused on the Pacific, however we soon figured out that it was a pennant from the German teaching ship whose students have been a major player in keeping the Azores plastic free. The particular pennant in Peters is from a trip across the Atlantic to the Caribbean.
Our ferry to Pico was waiting and we boarded quickly for the 30 minute trip across the narrow strait separating Faial from Pico Island. The breeze freshened as we moved out into the strait with entertainment provided by a couple of windsurfers and onboard personalities.
Pico
The Pico Island Vineyard culture has been awarded UNESCO Heritage Status. The site is approximately 1000 hectares and is composed of an amazing set of small plots delineated by walls (called currais) constructed from volcanic rocks that were designed to protect vines from wind and sea spray. The vines here are not supported on a trellis but allowed to grow flat on the ground. Fig trees are raised in the same way behind the walls. The walls create the microclimates required by the grapes, a type of agriculture on the island dating back to the 15th C. The mold/blight disease of a couple of centuries ago destroyed most of the grape vines in Europe and here on the Azores, resulting in the abandonment of many holdings. However, many have been and continue to be restored as evidenced by the activity in the valley. It is from these grapes that the amazing Pico White wines come from.
The last photo is of our guide Henry and Anne setting up a time exposure of the clouds moving over the Pico volcano.
Lunch was Petiscos along with a glass of one of the excellent local whites. Limpets, fava beans, tuna and local beef were outstanding! One of the best meals I have had in Portugal!
A trip along the incredible volcanic coastline took us to a small local winery whose whites have won major competitions in Portugal. The setting and wine did not disappoint – lovely whites, sitting in the sun with the sea at our back and the cloud swept top of Pico Volcano on the island side. Local cheeses and honey added to the experience. So did the myriad signs inside the building 🙂
Lajes do Pico is the site of the old whaling town on Pico. The last whale was caught in the 1980’s – whale watching has replaced whale hunting here: the small stations on the hills used for spotting whales for hunting are now used for whale spotting for whale watching boats. The whale museum is worth a visit: the small boats that the men went out in after the cetaceans still amaze me. The waterfront was a lovely place for a late afternoon stroll as we waited for the sun to set.
An amazing sunset from an island lookout reached via 4 X4 bumping up a narrow winding road along the side of a volcano was a fitting end to a perfect day and a perfect trip. I would like to finish by highly recommending Henry Simoes and Lost in Pico Slow Travel www.lostinpico.com . We had an incredible day. Whether you are interested in climbing, fishing, exploring the island or a guest house Henry is the best. Thank you again Henry for an amazing day!
We fly to Lisbon and homeward tomorrow. It has been three weeks of non-stop experiences that will be with me for a long time. Thank you for following along – may all your travels be safe and see you all next time!
